Phở Hòa Bình, Rockville, MD

For the second day in a row, I found myself in Rockville, and for the second day in a row, I had a bowl of Pho for lunch, this time at Pho Hoa Binh.

Although most pho houses in the area share a common feel, this is about as far away from the well-worn Pho 75 in Langley Park as you can get – it’s squeaky clean, and feels very new even though it’s now a few years old.

Like the day before, I got a large bowl of #1 (Tái, Nạm, Gầu, Gân, Sách (exact same ingredients!), $7.45), a dollar more than I paid in Langley Park.

I’ve come to terms with the fact that when I eat Pho, I’m often going to ingest massive amounts of MSG, and there’s no telling who uses how much, and who doesn’t use it at all (unless they explicitly say so). The soup at Pho Hoa Binh was thin and dilute, with most of the flavor coming on the forepalate, and having very little depth of flavor – there was no comparison between this and the exact same bowl of soup at Pho 75 the day before.

Maybe it was a cumulative effect, or maybe not, but there were the telltale signs of MSG afterwards – tingling lips, and an insatiable thirst beginning a few hours later. From the taste and appearance alone, this broth could have been chicken based, or even vegetable based with beef flavoring (there wasn’t much fat in it, and even the fatty meats didn’t help).

I’ve developed a theory that the more non-Pho items a restaurant serves, the worse their Pho proper tends to be, and that was no exception here. I’ve had worse, but I’ve had a lot better.

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York Castle, Rockville, MD

This was my first trip to the new York Castle, and it certainly won’t be my last. The old location (in Silver Spring) was one of my frequent haunts and I’m happy to say that – excessively cold temperature (both outside the building, and inside the freezer) aside, this ice cream hasn’t missed a beat since when I last had it.

Matt and I forewent the tempting tiramisu at Il Pizzico because we saw this driving by. Yes, guilt for having ice cream now three times in two days, but what am I to do? We got three of the “classic” York Castle flavors, all three having a registered trademark: Guinness, grape nuts, and Amaretto. The Guinness-grape nuts combo was my cup of choice for a long time, but I have to say that Matt’s Amaretto is making me rethink my strategy for my next visit.

While I wouldn’t call York Castle the best ice cream in town, it’s certainly much better than average, and worth going out of your way for. And I just love the new digs, too.

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Il Pizzico, Rockville, MD

I received some criticism for my thoughts about Casa Nonna (criticism, even spirited criticism, is always welcome, by the way). A few nights later, my son and I had dinner at Il Pizzico in Rockville, a white-tablecloth, red-sauce Italian restaurant that reminds me of what authentic, mom-n-pop, neighborhood restaurants should be all about. Critics, do go here and have a run at this place to fully understand my perspective.

I started off with a Dolcetto d’Alba ($8 for a medium pour) – the menu merely said “Dolcetto,” and listed neither producer nor vintage; fortunately, it was a palatable wine. My young dining companion went with the Diet Coke ($2.50). (Note: I feel I should add the price of soft drinks because they aren’t cheap; Il Pizzico did offer a refill, however, which we politely declined).

We split a Timballo di Melanzane ($8.95) as an appetizer along with their basket of passable bread and some nice olive condite as a spread – no oil for the table here, though I suspect if you requested it, they’d happily provide it – Il Pizzico is a very welcoming restaurant, with lots of senor citizens as diners. We couldn’t help comparing the timballo di melanzane with the Kasar Sahanda we’d had the night before at Nizam’s: granted, the timballo was more expensive, but also so much more interesting – eggplant layered with mozzarella, Parmigiano, and tomato, and baked in its earthenware dish until golden brown. They did not need to wash the dish, as it had been swiped clean with our bread.

Matt got the Raviolini di manzo con la riduzione di vitello e vino rosso ($14.95) as he had a taxing day and was craving meat. It was postage stamp ravioli stuffed with braised beef, and red wine reduction (I warned him about the red wine reduction, but he had at it with great aplomb).

For me, it was the Scallopine alla Krizia ($22.00), three large pieces of veal with prosciutto, melted cheese, and tomato sauce (hard to go wrong there, right?) It was very good, although I was really Jonesing for a saltimbocca dish which wasn’t on the menu.

This little foray up I-270 wasn’t cheap – the bill came to $70.38 before tip, but the food was honorable, the staff was as nice as can be, and the wine was just fine. This is the type of restaurant that I really cherish, although I council that it’s a touch expensive for daily dining. This is an important neighborhood restaurant that serves a seemingly well-heeled, devoted clientele – it’s a win all the way around.

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Phở 75, Langley Park, MD

I’ve been going to this outlet of Pho 75 for over twenty years, and have probably been several dozen times – I got my parents hooked on it, and to this day, my mom asks about going once a week or so (she always gets white meat chicken, and always asks for a fork (which they happily provide)).

Me, I get a large bowl of #1 (Tái, Nạm, Gầu, Gân, Sách, $6.45) which contains slices of eye-of-round steak, well-done flank, fat brisket, soft tendon, and bible tripe. It’s the Big Bubba, and will concentrate the broth the most towards the bottom of the bowl (since it’s the fattiest cuts).

There are degrees of consistency at most Phở houses, but Phở 75, at least the one in Langley Park, has been one of the most consistent over the years, and it has been consistently excellent (and was so again, the only drawback this time being the off-putting smell of insecticide (or whatever it was) at a table near the cash register area). Interestingly, I spotted a second Phở house across University Blvd., so competition has finally arrived.

As an aside, when my son was 3, Karen and I played a dirty trick on him at a Pho house (now closed) in Eden Center – we gave him his first lime wedge. He stuck his tongue on it, plastered his eyes shut and shuddered, put it down, and said, “yuck!” Well, we had a good chuckle, anyway.

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Molly’s Yogurt, Vienna, VA

In the same parking lot as Nizam’s, Molly’s Yogurt was opened last year by Jeremy Schottler, owner of Italian Gourmet (also in the same parking lot).

Molly’s Yogurt, however, is something of a misnomer because the real treat there is the gelato, made by pastry chef Gianluigi Dellaccio from Washington, DC. After dinner at Nizam’s, we strolled in and I got a small cup of Pistacchio ($3) for the ride – it barely made it out of the parking lot.

Molly’s is very good gelato (I’d love to say “great” gelato, but my sample size is too small). It’s worth a detour if you’re near Vienna, and you’ll find it tucked around the back of the parking lot, so look for Nizam’s or Italian Gourmet as your landmarks.

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Nizam’s, Vienna, VA

Nizam’s has been open since 1978, and with the possible exception of Topkapi in Fairfax, had the best reputation for Turkish in NoVa. So how’s it doing now?

I hadn’t been here in years, probably ten years, but I distinctly remember getting (and enjoying) a Yogurtlu Kabob; this time around, the three of us stuck with meze.

The Kavaklidere ($6.75 for both red and white) was a wonderful surprise of a house wine. It was exactly what I had hoped for: correct flavors, light-medium body, and no ugly flavors sticking out. The red in particular was in danger of not being pleasant, but it was, and I’d get it the next time I go.

As for the meze, there were two standouts: Sigara Borek ($5.95) and Cacik ($4.50), and if you’re going to get appetizers here, put both of these on your menu. The regular Borek ($4.50) was awful, probably not made in-house, and was so devoid of fillings that it was difficult to find them.  My mom loved her cup of Lentil Soup ($3.50); I took one bite and found it a bit thin and salty. Kasar Sahanda ($5) was just plain old gooey, oven-melted cheese, so if you like that, get it. The Sucuk ($6) was grocery-store quality, diagonal cuts of sausage, and the Hommus ($5) was absolutely no better than you’d get at a Safeway – coarse and bitter, it is the worst hommus I can remember having at a restaurant.

Service here is semi-formal, and also professional and polished. It’s obvious this is an old-school restaurant, where customers are valued and treated well. Remember Nizam’s (along with Cafe Renaissance) if you’re in Vienna and looking to be served by people who know what they’re doing. This restaurant is also quite welcoming to the older diner.

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Toby’s Homemade Ice Cream and Coffee, Arlington, VA

Whenever I’m getting coffee near East Falls Church Metro (which is often), I avoid driving to Starbucks and usually find myself at Toby’s, formerly Scoop Beauregard’s. (Toby “Rub” (*) Bantug and his wife Monina used to work at Scoop’s, then purchased it and renamed it).

One thing that I love about this place is that, unlike Starbucks, you can order a large coffee and still get change back from $2. Toby’s uses local roaster M.E. Swing for their coffee, and I tend to go for a large cup of French Roast ($1.75).

I don’t eat a lot of ice cream (but boy I sure went on a rampage this weekend). However, I’ve always been intrigued by the two levels that Toby’s features: “home made” (which is made in small batches) and “made in-house” (which is made on premises). They feature a minimum of 16% butterfat, so it’s well above any definition of “super premium” you could come up with – I got a small cup of Oreo ($2.34), and it was fantastic.

Toby’s is a very underrated source of good ice cream in the area. It’s more than worthy of your business.

(*) Could. Not. Resist.

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Pupatella, Arlington, VA

In the past few months, I doubt there’s a single restaurant I’ve been to more than Pupatella. Along with Pizzeria Orso, it is one of my two favorite pizzas in the area right now, and Pupatella comes in at a lower price point than Orso.

This place has become so popular that it has become fruitless (for me, anyway) to try and order carryout over the phone here – it just rolls over to voice mail during peak hours – so I broke down the other night and dined in the restaurant.

One thing I always, always do at Pupatella is to order at least two pizzas because that gives you a discount of $10 on any bottle of wine (this is both for dining in and carrying out). Don’t be tempted to save a dollar by ordering La Bastarda (their least expensive white); “spring” for the new Sicilian white they’re offering, the 2009 Case Ibidini Insolia ($23, but a fantastic $13 with the discount) which has better acidity and is more food-friendly.  This wine is the second label of Valle dell’Acate.

And, as usual, the two pizzas were great. From the regular menu, a Spinach ($10) comes with white garlic sauce, spinach, roasted red pepper, pine nuts and pecorino. And on their weekly specials list, a Hot Coppa ($12) came with coppa (from Olli Salumeria in Richmond), rosemary, caramelized onions, and fontina. Both of these pizzas were equal in quality, one being vegetarian, the other not.

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Food Matters, Alexandria, VA

A trusted friend of mine who has been one of Food Matters‘ biggest supporters over the years has repeatedly told me it has gone downhill. I didn’t want to believe it because I, too, have been one of their biggest supporters, so I plugged my ears and sang out loud (*).

But I went last week, and although I ordered very simply (too simply to draw any conclusions), the level of execution wasn’t up to that of numerous previous visits.

One thing’s for sure: their beer selection (and their bar) still merits a visit. A bottle of New Holland Brewing Company’s Full Circle Ale, for example, was only $4, and that’s not a discounted price.

Their menu is updated seasonally (if not monthly), and even though we only got sandwiches, there are much more interesting things on the January menu (Chicken-Fried Bison Steak, for example).

My young dining companion ordered a Roseda Farms Angus Beef Burger ($10) with Crisp Bacon ($1) and White Cheddar ($1). It was ordered medium-rare, came out medium-well, and was so distressingly like the Roseda Farms burger I recently had at EatBar that I wonder if Roseda Farms isn’t selling pre-formed patties (they were both small, dense, and perfectly formed). Note: immediately after I typed that last sentence, I checked, and they apparently are (although I’ve also found out that EatBar definitely grinds their burger in-house; not sure about Food Matters). The sandwiches here come with one side order, and the hand-cut fries were average.

I opted for the Roasted Brisket Sandwich ($11) on a whole wheat roll, provolone, and tangy red slaw. The brisket itself was good, if a touch on the skimpy side, but the roll was so darned dry that it just made eating the sandwich something of a chore. My side of mashed potatoes and gravy was, like the french fries, decent.

But the best (or, now that I just got a text message less than ten seconds ago, the second-best) was saved for last: a Vanilla Ice Cream Handwich ($4) came sandwiched between two chocolate chip cookies, and was a delight not unlike something that might come from Buzz Bakery (the parallels between Food Matters and EatBar continue to grow).

We had a window table, and I looked outside and saw a car with a bumper sticker that said, “No Farms No Food.” I’m willing to bet this was the owner’s car, because very, very few restaurants have consistently (and genuinely) shown proper respect and honor toward smaller, local farms than Food Matters. If this restaurant has somehow declined, the obvious reason is lack of business (it takes a critical mass of customers for a place like this to succeed), and it’s nobody’s fault but our own if that critical mass hasn’t occurred. Please, please don’t let what happened to American Flatbread happen to Food Matters – this is a restaurant that deserves your support and business.

(*) And I’m thrilled to say that the text message I just got was from my friend mentioned in the first paragraph. I had previously asked her if she still felt Food Matters was in decline. Her response: “Actually, no. Last two visits have been stellar. Might be anomalies, but their new menu and some other changes make me guardedly optimistic.”

Support Food Matters – it matters!

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Famous Luigi’s, Downtown

I’d like to say Famous Luigi’s is underrated, but I can’t for two reasons: it’s generally not rated, and over the years, I don’t think I’ve ever had anything here other than pizza.

But I do enjoy their pizza (which is only a small part of their menu). The other evening, I was in the mood for something gooey and cheesy, and got a plain old Cheese Pizza ($9 for two). Sure enough, it was like it always is: simple, unfussy, and tasty.

I suspect you can make grave errors here with toppings such as Bleu Cheese, Smoke [sic] Salmon, and Baby Shrimp. But other than some loaded pizzas for 3-4 people, there isn’t a single item on their rather large menu that costs over $18.75 (most entrees hover around $15).

Famous Luigi’s has been in business since 1943 (!), making it one of the Oldest Restaurants in the Area. They’re open until midnight seven nights a week, and offer free delivery with a minimum order of $15.

Note: If you can think of a restaurant that isn’t on that list that has been open since 1979 or before, please contact me and let me know.

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