Happy Labor Day (and unofficial last day of summer (hat tip: Allen, Éluard, McCarthy, Saramago)), Knock! Knock! Knock!, <groan>, 8 AM room service serving as a wake-up call to September, coffee and tea served in the impossibly elegant suite at the impossibly exquisite ABaC, August closing with young superstar Jordi Cruz, youngest Michelin-starred chef in the history of Spain, knocking it out of the park with his Grand ABaC menu, fifteen courses of art, highlighted by a dish of rice, farm chicken, Saint-Félicien cheese, summer truffle, hazelnut, rocket lettuce, and an egg yolk with garlic (essentially a truffled risotto masquerading as a chicken sausage (the truffle acting as a false casing)) the equal of any single dish I’ve ever eaten, the final dessert of oversnow of yogurt and biscuits, flower’s nectar, and violet ice cream being too beautiful for mortal words to capture, disrupted and immediately followed by a cruel, hostile meal on US Airways on the way home, the day extending into, then ending with, reliable, consistent comfort food via steak frites at Medium Rare, thrust back to Europe, briefly, saucing, service, and well-made frites (dipped in the sauce) the strengths here, $15 corkage fee for wines, so why not bring them from Weygandt Wines across the street, having ironed out their management issues this same day, and resolving to restock and become one of our city’s finest retailers once again, next night was next door, Palena Cafe, three cold courses all perfect, lime-scented seviche, vitello tonnato, pâté de campagne, absolutely the second Michelin starred-quality cuisine of the month, riding in the back, only to the fearsome, long-boned cowboy at Ray’s The Steaks, get anything, and everything, dry-aged here, Mark Slater serving up an impeccably balanced, textbook Graves, the 2002 Château du Grand Bos, $44, imported by our great Ed Addiss of Wine Traditions, Ltd, every wine I’ve ever tried with the Wine Traditions label has been worth buying, you can buy them blind, how was your weekend.
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